21.10.11

Hagia Sophia

"God's Wisdom" : The eternal structure of Byzantine Constantinople
a magnificent Orthodox Patriarchal Basilica built in the sixth century 
on the orders of the Byzantine Emperor Justinian
the Imperial Gate used only by the emperors
over the centuries, the imperial and religious images worked in mosaic
that had decorated the great church during its Christian era
were slowly covered with plaster and painted decorations
in the interest of art, the Turkish government allowed the experts of the Byzantine Institute,
an international body of scholars, to uncover the ancient mosaics,
and the work was begun in 1931 and continued to 1938.
Hagia Sophia was declared a museum
the Apse mosaic features the Blessed Mother with her feet on a bejeweled pedestal, 
with baby Christ on her lap, against a golden background. 
Mary, the Mother of God, was the protectoress of the Great Church of Hagia Sophia and Constantinople. 
She is said to have appeared at a critical time in a  siege in the seventh century 
and in gratitude for deliverance, the city afterwards held her in especial reverence
the dome "as though suspended from heaven by a golden chain"
the temple was so richly and artistically decorated that Justinian proclaimed,
"Solomon, I have outdone thee!"
pillars from Ephesus and chandeliers adorn the interior
marble pillars of great artistic value
frescoes and mosaics
the walls, from the ground up, are covered in identical manner.
Plaques of red, yellow and green marble blend with the mosaics,
and these are further embellished by the capitals, imposts, architraves and friezes
the upper gallery
gigantic circular-framed calligraphy medallions hang on columns
inscribed with the names of Allah, the Prophet Muhammad,
the first four caliphs and the two grandchildren of Mohammed
Sultan's gallery
one of the greatest monuments of Christianity was made a mosque
when the city fell to the Ottoman Turks in 1453
throughout the siege of Polis in 1453, the Holy Liturgy and Prayer of the Hours 
were performed at the Hagia Sophia and the church formed a refuge for many of those 
who were unable to contribute to the city’s defense
trapped in the church, a few of the elderly and infirm were killed and the remainder chained. 
Priests continued to perform Christian rites until stopped by the invaders.  
When Sultan Mehmed II entered the church, 
he insisted it should be at once transformed into a mosque
before that, Hagia Sophia had enjoyed the status as the largest cathedral in the world 
for almost a thousand years until Seville's cathedral was built
Ottoman and Byzantium effects under one great dome
the prophet of God in Muslim religion, Muhammad,
had prophesied that the first Muslim to pray in Hagia Sophia would go to paradise
it remained a mosque until 1935 when it was opened as a museum

The Blue Mosque

called "the Blue Mosque" for the blue tiles adorning the walls of its interior, it was built in 1616 during the rule of Sultan Ahmet I to rival the neighboring Hagia Sophia in grandeur and beauty
the impressive entrance leads to the biggest courtyard of all the Ottoman mosques
as you ascend the stairs, semidomes come into view: first the one over the mosque’s main door, then the one above it, and another, and another. Finally the main dome crowns the whole, and your attention is drawn to the sides, where forests of smaller domes reinforce the effect, completed by the minarets which lift your eyes heavenward
side view with one of the minarets
side of the mosque
the courtyard is the same size as the mosque’s interior
before entering, shoes must be taken off and women who haven’t brought their own headscarf or are too scantily dressed will be loaned a headscarf and/or robe
according to one account, the Sultan directed his architect to make gold (altin) minarets which was misunderstood as six (alti) minarets
part of the continued vaulted arcade that surrounds  the courtyard
the last great mosque of the classical period

Phanar

under the Ottoman Empire, Phanar was the residence of the privileged Greek families
the name comes from Greek "fanari" (φανάρι) meaning lantern
Fener-Phanar-Fanar
a road usually with heavy traffic
the streets in the area are full of historic wooden houses and orthodox churches dating from Byzantine and Ottoman times
dilapidated and neglected
in the 17th century, Fener became the residence of upper classes and the bourgeoisie with its stone buildings and richly ornamented house facades
when the aristocratic families left the neighbourhood, artisans and small traders were left behind
and they moved to the unique row houses of the district
presently inhabited by a mostly Muslim population that immigrated from other cities and rural areas
due to low rents, Fener continues to hold a key position in the adaptation to the urban environment of a population that is poor and lacking the economic resources to carry out the necessary repair and maintenance of the architectural structure
The Great School of the Nation is the oldest surviving and most prestigious Greek Orthodox school in Istanbul
designed by the Ottoman Greek architect Dimadis
known among the locals with nicknames such as "the Red Castle" and "The Red School"

St. Mary of the Mongols is the only Byzantine church of Constantinople that has never been converted to a mosque

On May 29 1453, the day of the Fall of Constantinople, the surroundings of the building saw the last desperate resistance of the Greeks against the invading Ottomans
due to that, the church got the Turkish name Kanlı Kilise ("Church of the Blood")
a light still bright
silver offerings
in ruins
behind wires
a symmetrical serenity
a beautiful window view
surely there must be a simple way to hang them up there
every home has a story to tell
honest labour
traditional residential buildings
see no evil
past beauty
deterioration with time
cast iron
Tahir, a very smart and sweet boy
the Patriarchal Basilica of St. George
home to the Ecumenical Patriarchate since the fifteenth century
peaceful and simple
humble
the inner entrance of the church
a fountain
entrance of administrative building
the sealed gate at Greek Patriarchate
in memory of Patriarch Gregory V who was hanged from it in 1821
posing like a true model
the waters of Golden Horn somewhere at the back